As we walked between the railings, to take our seats on
either side of the tarmac, I could feel a ripple of excitement going up my
spine. For, here at Wagha border, I had just to glance across to catch my first
ever glimpse of Pakistan. This could well be the sentiment of most of the 45
members of my group, who were travelling from Kerala, way down south. Our group
was on the Amarnath Yatra with Swami Sandeepananda Giri and Wagha Border was en route. And so here we were
in time to watch the Beating the Retreat ceremony which is performed every
evening on both sides of this Indo-Pak border.
Wagha, for the uninitiated, is an army outpost, lying
between Amritsar and Lahore. The distance from Amritsar would be about 28 kms.
Earlier in the day, we visited Jallianwallah Bagh, the
Durgiani temple and the spectacular Golden Temple situated in the ‘Pool of
Nectar’, from which Amritsar (Amrita
saras) gets its name. The city as we know it today dates back to the 15th
century, but its association with Ramayana is proof that the city existed many
thousands of years earlier. It is here that Sage Valmiki wrote the epic and the
place is said to have been blessed with Lord Sri Ram and Sita Devi’s presence,
during their years in exile. Today the city is the center of Sikh history and
culture and trade—a beehive of activity, bearing testimony to Sikh enterprise
and hard work.
But to get back to the Wagha Border ...
Soldiers form the Border Security Force of India and
Pakistan Rangers on the Pakistan side go through the exercise of Beating the
retreat and Change of Guards every evening at 6 pm, marking the end of the day
and bringing down the respective national flags.
As we settled down in our positions, one began to take in
the atmosphere and the feel of the place. From the small office building,
loudspeakers were blaring patriotic filmi music of the sixties. The fairly
large gallery, across the building was jam-packed and people kept time to the
music. Some girls even got on to the tarmac to do an improvisation of the
bhangra. Every now and then, after each song, slogans like “vande mataram” and
Bharat Mata ki jai”, would be sounded over the speakers, which were greeted
with lusty cheers from the gallery. The patriotic fervour was almost palpable.
As we waited for the actual ceremony to begin, I was reminded of the crowd at
an India - Pakistan ODI cricket match, waiting for the opening batsman.
The formalities began when a six-footer of an Indian soldier,
marching and thumping the land with his boots reached the last point of the
Indian border. The soldiers on both sides of the border do not carry rifles or
guns, but they pound verbal artillery at each other while performing the
ceremony. Their eyes and actions reflect the manner in which shells are fired
across the border. The ceremony ended with the respective national flags being
brought down on both sides to the accompaniment of the blowing of bugles.
By this time, the sun, which knows no man-made boundaries,
had made its way to the Pakistani side. It caressed that land with the last
golden rays with as much affection as it did earlier on the Indian side.
Frankly, the whole exercise left me with a brooding sadness. While cries of
Bharat Mata ki Jai rent the air, all I could feel was empathy for that maternal
heart that was weeping as she stood in front of her children split into two
enemy camps. Much like Kunti Devi whose heart was torn apart when her
first-born Karna and her younger children,the Pandavas, fought against each other. If only they had
realized they were brothers, no Mahabharata war would have taken place. If only
people of the world today realized the significance of this message of
Universal Brotherhood, no blood would be spilt unnecessarily.